Health and Safety:
Heating System Efficiency and Safety:
Hot Water Systems:
Drafts and Air Leaks:
Mechanical Ventilation:
Insulation:
Windows:
Doors:
Attics:
Exterior Walls:
Basement:
Outdoors:
Weatherizing your home will minimize the movement of air through your house. When air enters the home through small cracks, it invites pests (like mice) and causes drafts that can drain your wallet and chill your bones. Homeowners can apply some small remedies to reduce airflow. However traditional homeowner remedies are not always effective. There are countless weatherization steps you can take; however the three most cost-effective steps involve your doors, windows, and basement sill.
1) Doors: Does Weather Stripping Really Save You Money?
Fact: A 1/8” gap around the perimeter of your door allows the same heat loss as a 6” hole at the center of your door.
Many people think of a “door” as a swinging board, controlled by the twist of a handle. Although in reality, a door is a complex unit, which includes the door, the jamb, the seals, and moving components (like hinges) - all of which are manufactured together to function smoothly as a whole. To maintain an effective seal against the outdoor elements, this door system must to stay perfectly aligned.
If you are losing heat around your door, it is either due to deteriorated weather stripping or to the warping of your door. This isn’t easy to fix with hardware store weather stripping. Weather stripping that doesn’t come from the door manufacturer of your door won’t create the same seal as the stripping your door came with. You can use weather stripping from the hardware store for a temporary fix, but it will only provide a buffer against the elements. It won’t bring back the door’s original perfect seal.
If your door is warped, weather stripping will provide even less protection. You are better off replacing the door, which will cost more initially, but will save you money on your heating bill as time passes.
To determine your most economical move, it is best to bring in a professional builder to assess the condition of your door and suggest a course of action.
2) Windows:The basement sill is the area where the wooden portion of your home meets the concrete portion of your basement or foundation. This can be an extraordinarily leaky spot when it’s not insulated properly
When the wind blows against your house, it blows right through hundreds of tiny cracks in your basement sill, creating a draft of air across your basement and out the other side. If you own an older home, it’s likely that your basement is insulated with fiberglass, which does not form an adequate seal and allows air flow.
To button up this part of the home, you will want to pull out any fiberglass or other inefficient insulation. Vacuum the area, so that you are working with clean surfaces, then spray foam along the sill. This part of the process should be done thoroughly. Spray the foam over the wood, following the sill down onto the cement at the top of the foundation. Another option is to place rigid foam insulation (for example, blue board) in the sill box and foam around the edges to hold it in place.
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